| El Cotillo The tiny,
modest church in this fishing village is dedicated to the Virgin of the
Happy Journey (Virgin de Buen Viaje), the reason doubtless being the village’s
long tradition as a smuggler’s harbour. From here, goods were shipped
off to Gran Canaria untaxed and duty-free, particularly grain, as the
prices were better there than on the home island, plagued as it was by
drought, famine and poverty.
Built in 1743 as a reaction to repeated pirate attacks by the English,
who three years previously had been so victoriously routed near Tuineje
(see History), the Castillo de Rico Roque (or El Toston) bears witness
to the importance of the seemingly uninteresting little harbour up to
the 18th century. The round, tapering fort consists of two floors (like
the one in El Castillo): downstairs, the soldiers lived, upstairs was
the water reservoir. It has been restored.
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